Syrian Kurds are at the crossroads of two main geopolitical issues in the Middle East: on one side, the battle for the future of Syria; on the other side, the long struggle of Kurds in the whole region to achieve recognition, autonomy, possibly independence. Among them, more than 200,000 have fled Syria and taken refuge in Iraqi Kurdistan. How do they eke out a living? What kind of hospitality are they receiving? How do they manage to reconcile their double identity - Kurdish and Syrian - and which one prevails?