In coastal province Jizan of southern Saudi Arabia's historic Asir region, Kefah visits a tribe of ens of thousands who preserve ancient Arab custom. The relatively fertile part of Arabia, near Yemen -hence Customs patrols against smuggling- is fit for herding and hunting. Their nickname stems from a tradition -restricted to festive occasions for the younger generation- to wear floral garlands on the heads, men openly, women under headdress, the sent being particularly sought. A museum still show off master pieces of the colorful arts, lingering in abandoned ancestral villages, that used to be practiced by women, who now embrace the age of black garments and access to study and professional life.