In Bury, at Britain's best market, Rick Stein immerses himself in the rich food traditions of north west England. In Manchester, he meets Joe Otway, an exciting chef reinventing those traditions for a hip crowd, and at a shop selling old vinyl records, Rick recalls how much joy Manchester's music has brought him. In his home in Cornwall, Rick cooks a scotch egg for a ploughman's and one of his favourites, liver, bacon and onions.