Ilja visits Asturia(s), a rural, little-known mountainous region in the north(west). Its kings played a proud part in preventing the Moors conquering all Iberia, resisting Arab conquest in caves and battles, making them and a local Madonna still-revered heroes of Christian survival. Caves are still used, as for ripening 14 months the world's most penetrating cheese. Life is hard, on land and at sea, where Gorts joins a fisherman yet releases the huge lobster he bought aboard. Running a vineyard is quite a challenge on steep rocky slopes, but Ilya finds proof it can be done and yields good wine.